Balmain

How Balmain labels evolved over time. Match the markers below against the tag in hand to place a garment in its era.

1. 1950–1959

   Couture-Era 'Chapeaux' Tags

   Bold capital 'PIERRE BALMAIN' over 'PARIS', cream or white grounds with black embroidery, occasional 'CHAPEAUX' or 'Florilège' for line wording.

   
   • Tags often feature PIERRE BALMAIN in bold capital letters with PARIS underneath.
   • They include unique text such as CHAPEAUX and Florilège for specific lines.
   • These tags usually have a cream or white background with black embroidery.

   How to spot it

   Cream tag with bold 'PIERRE BALMAIN PARIS'.

   Value signal

   Museum-grade; 50s couture-era Balmain is exceptionally rare.

2. 1960–1969

   Boxed 'PB' Monogram Tags

   The same uppercase wordmark, often with the square 'PB' monogram beside the name, on white or cream grounds with black text.

   
   • Tags include PIERRE BALMAIN in bold capital letters with PARIS beneath.
   • Some tags include a square PB logo beside the brand name.
   • The tags often have a white or cream background with black text.

   How to spot it

   Square 'PB' monogram beside the name.

   Value signal

   Grail; 60s Balmain couture is collector-grade.

3. 1970–1979

   'Les Tricots' Licensee Tags

   Bold uppercase logo kept with line wording like 'Les Tricots', tags noting international manufacture in Japan or the UK as licensees expanded.

   
   • Tags prominently display PIERRE BALMAIN in bold uppercase letters with PARIS underneath.
   • Additional lines, such as Les Tricots, appear in some tags.
   • The tags often include international manufacturing locations, like Japan or the UK.

   How to spot it

   'Les Tricots' or international-licensee make.

   Value signal

   Strong; 70s Balmain RTW has solid collector demand.

4. 1980–1989

   'Boutique' & France-Made Tags

   Uppercase logo with specific lines like 'BOUTIQUE' or 'MADE IN FRANCE', the square 'PB' monogram often kept beside the name.

   
   • Tags generally display PIERRE BALMAIN in capital letters with PARIS below.
   • Some tags feature specific lines like BOUTIQUE or MADE IN FRANCE.
   • The square PB logo is often used next to the brand name.

   How to spot it

   'BOUTIQUE' or 'MADE IN FRANCE' wording.

   Value signal

   Strong; 80s Balmain holds collector value.

5. 1990–1999

   'Garçon' & 'Exclusiva' Tags

   Bold caps with distinctive lines like 'GARÇON' or 'EXCLUSIVA', varied backgrounds — blue, brown or black — with contrasting text colours.

   
   • Tags include PIERRE BALMAIN in bold capital letters, usually with PARIS underneath.
   • Some tags incorporate distinctive lines like GARÇON or EXCLUSIVA.
   • Background colors vary, often including blue, brown, or black with contrasting text colors.

   How to spot it

   Coloured-ground tag with 'GARÇON' or 'EXCLUSIVA'.

   Value signal

   Solid; 90s Balmain sells consistently.

6. 2000–2009

   'PB' Modern Tags

   Bold uppercase 'PIERRE BALMAIN PARIS' kept, the square 'PB' monogram continued, fabric composition sometimes on a separate small tag.

   
   • Tags feature PIERRE BALMAIN in bold uppercase letters with PARIS beneath.
   • The square PB logo continues to appear beside the brand name.
   • Fabric composition is sometimes included on separate tags.

   How to spot it

   Bold uppercase logo with 'PB' monogram.

   Value signal

   Solid; pre-Decarnin Balmain has steady demand.

7. 2010–2019

   Numerical-Size Modern Tags

   Uppercase logo kept, frequent numerical size labels, contrasting text across white, black and cream grounds.

   
   • Tags display PIERRE BALMAIN in uppercase letters with PARIS often appearing below.
   • The tags frequently include numerical size labels.
   • Text colors contrast against a range of background colors like white, black, and cream.

   How to spot it

   Numerical-size modern Balmain tag.

   Value signal

   Modern; the Decarnin/Rousteing era keeps resale strong.