Chanel

How Chanel labels evolved over time. Match the markers below against the tag in hand to place a garment in its era.

1. 1920–1929

   Earliest Couture Tags

   The earliest tags alternated script and block wordmarks, some carrying 'Paris'; most early Chanel was couture.

   
   • Many of the earliest Chanel tags alternated between a script and block text logo.
   • Some of them included “”Paris”” on them.
   • Most early Chanel items were couture at this time.

   How to spot it

   An early script or block wordmark, often 'Paris'.

   Value signal

   Museum-grade; 1920s Chanel is exceptionally rare.

2. 1930–1939

   White Rectangle Paris Tags

   Similar tags continued — wide white rectangles, commonly mentioning France or Paris.

   
   • Similar tags proliferated in the 1930s.
   • A common theme was to mention France or Paris.
   • They are wide white rectangles.

   How to spot it

   A wide white rectangle naming France or Paris.

   Value signal

   Museum-grade; pre-war Chanel rarely surfaces.

3. 1960–1969

   Uniform Black Block Tags

   Tags became more uniform — wide black rectangles with white block-text logo.

   
   • In the 1960s, tags started to become more uniform.
   • The block text font logo was used.
   • The tags are wide black rectangles with white font.

   How to spot it

   A wide black rectangle with white block lettering.

   Value signal

   Rare and collector-grade.

4. 1970–1979

   CC Emblem Introduced

   A similar design, but white versions grew common and the interlocking-CC emblem appeared on tags for the first time.

   
   • A similar design was used for 1970s tags.
   • One common difference was the more common use of white versions of the tags.
   • The two Cs emblem was also introduced on the tags to memorialize Chanel.

   How to spot it

   The interlocking-CC emblem on the tag.

   Value signal

   Highly sought; 70s Chanel commands serious money.

5. 1980–1989

   Longer 'Boutique' Tags

   The CC emblem was used more regularly; tags grew longer and sewn in on both sides, some carrying the word 'Boutique'.

   
   • The new emblem was used more regularly on tags in the 1980s.
   • They were longer and sewn in on both sides.
   • They also included the word ‘Boutique’ on some tags.

   How to spot it

   A longer tag, CC emblem, sometimes 'Boutique'.

   Value signal

   Strong; 80s Chanel is a peak collector era.

6. 2000–2009

   Polyester Care Labels Added

   The tag design held, but polyester labels with manufacture and sizing detail became common.

   
   • The tag design remained very similar.
   • However, many of the tags started to have polyester labels with manufacture information included on them.
   • They also had some sizing information on them.

   How to spot it

   The classic tag now paired with a polyester care label.

   Value signal

   Strong; authentication essential given the brand.

7. 2010–2019

   Bold Font, Small CC

   Modern tags often have an attached size label, a smaller CC emblem and a slightly bigger, bolder font.

   
   • The more modern tags often have a size label attached to them.
   • The two Cs emblem is also smaller.
   • With slightly bigger and bolder font.

   How to spot it

   A bolder font with a smaller CC emblem and size label.

   Value signal

   Modern; priced on the piece, authentication essential.