T THRIFT TAG DIRECTORY
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High Fashion

Comme des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo's avant-garde Tokyo house. The all-caps wordmark is constant, so tag shape and the ubiquitous PLAY heart line do the dating.

Comme des Garçons label
Origin
Japan
Founded
1969
Category
High Fashion
Documented eras
4
Label timeline

How Comme des Garçons labels evolved over time. Match the markers below against the tag in hand to place a garment in its era.

  1. 1980–1989

    Wide Logo-Only Tags

    CdG became prominent in the 80s and expanded into womenswear; tags are wide rectangles carrying just the logo, sometimes the line, with no sizing.

    Wide Logo-Only Tags label
    • Comme des Garçons became a popular line in the 1980s, and quickly was expanded into a women’s line too
    • The tags are wide rectangles with just the logo on them
    • They may include the line too but no sizing information is included

    How to spot it

    A wide rectangular tag with only the logo.

    Value signal

    Strong; 80s CdG is a sought collector era.

  2. 1990–1999

    Simple White Tags

    Many 90s tags echo the 80s; a simple white tag, this example showing the logo twice.

    Simple White Tags label
    • A lot of the 1990s tags were very similar to the 1980s ones
    • This example shows the logo twice
    • It is a simple white tag

    How to spot it

    A simple white tag, often the logo repeated.

    Value signal

    Solid; 90s CdG holds collector interest.

  3. 2000–2009

    Designer-Reference Tags

    Tags began referencing key designers and figures from the brand's history; many became longer and thinner, the logo filling the space, with some sizing.

    Designer-Reference Tags label
    • 2000s Comme des Garçons tags began referencing key designers and figures from the brand’s history
    • Many of the tags became longer and thinner
    • The logo would fill most of the space
    • They also had some sizing information on them

    How to spot it

    A long thin tag, logo-dominant, with sizing.

    Value signal

    Common; condition-driven resale.

  4. 2010–2019

    PLAY-Era Large White Tags

    Lines like PLAY became hugely popular and usually signal a modern piece; size tabs grew consistent, on large white rectangles.

    PLAY-Era Large White Tags label
    • Lines such as the PLAY line have become even more popular in the 2010s, and are usually a sign of a modern piece
    • They also started to have sizing tabs included more consistently
    • They are large white rectangles

    How to spot it

    Large white tags; a PLAY label means modern.

    Value signal

    Modern; the PLAY line aside, priced on the piece.

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