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Athletic & Streetwear

Stussy

Shawn Stussy's surf-born streetwear original. The graffiti signature never changes, so the tag colour, the big-letter size circle, and country of make do the dating.

Stussy label
Origin
USA
Founded
1980
Category
Athletic & Streetwear
Documented eras
4
Label timeline

How Stussy labels evolved over time. Match the markers below against the tag in hand to place a garment in its era.

  1. 1980–1989

    Rudimentary Black & Navy Tags

    The first labels are rudimentary — black rectangles with only the logo; by the late 80s they turned navy and added a letter size, country of make and a care tag.

    Rudimentary Black & Navy Tags label
    • The first-ever Stussy labels are unsurprisingly rudimentary considering the t-shirts started off as purely promotional for Shawn’s surf shop
    • They are black rectangles with only the logo on them
    • As the 1980s came to an end, the tags would be updated to a navy color
    • And they included a letter size and country of manufacture
    • It also added care instructions and composition to an additional tag

    How to spot it

    A plain black (early) or navy (late-80s) logo-only tag.

    Value signal

    Rare and collector-grade; 80s Stussy is the holy grail era.

  2. 1990–1999

    Big-Letter Size Circle

    Many 90s tags carried over the late-80s design — a large letter size in a circle is a strong vintage sign; tags grew more uniform as new product lines launched.

    Big-Letter Size Circle label
    • Many of the tags from the 1990s carried over the design from the late 1980s
    • This has led to the letter size being large in the circle being a good sign that Stussy is vintage
    • The general structure of the tags was maintained, however, alternate versions with slightly different designs colors were used at the tim
    • The tags would become a lot more uniform in their design over this period
    • Similarly, to previous iterations, they would simply have the logo, size, and country of manufacture, with any further information on a separate tag
    • Stussy also began expanding into new product lines which were reflected on some of the tags

    How to spot it

    A large letter size set in a circle.

    Value signal

    Strong; 90s Stussy is a cornerstone of streetwear resale.

  3. 2000–2009

    Red-Letter Size Tags

    The most common vintage tag debuted — logo with a big red size letter below; many pieces made in Mexico from US materials as production offshored.

    Red-Letter Size Tags label
    • The most commonly seen vintage tag was introduced in the 2000s, which featured the logo with the sizing as a big red letter below it
    • These items were often made in Mexico using US materials
    • A lot of Stussy’s production moved offshore at this time
    • Some of the tags started to be completely sewn in and would have sizing tabs attached beneath them

    How to spot it

    The logo above a large red size letter.

    Value signal

    Solid; 2000s Stussy has a steady streetwear following.

  4. 2010–2019

    Smooth Black Modern Tags

    Newer tags use a smoother black material carrying only size, country of make and occasionally the clothing line — easy to tell from vintage in hand.

    Smooth Black Modern Tags label
    • The newer tags became a smoother black material
    • The only information they include is the size, country of manufacture and occasionally the line of clothing
    • These tags can easily be distinguished from vintage tags due to their new feel and appearance when they’re in front of you

    How to spot it

    A smooth black tag with minimal text.

    Value signal

    Modern; priced on the piece.

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